THE FOUR YOUNG DESIGNERS WE'RE OBSESSED WITH

This week: a sequel to our best read newsletter thus far. The four young designers we’re obsessed with. But first: the half man, half horse shoes that are taking over our shopping carts.

Half man, half shoe

Phoebe Philo unveiled her second edit last Thursday, and we can’t get ourself to close the Pillow scarf tab on our laptops, affectionately dubbed a chic neck brace, crafted from cream silk satin. Yes, you read that correctly; we're merely looking at it—wearing it is out of the question for obvious reasons. Phoebe's impromptu collection announcement, her first-ever Instagram post, showcased a pair of black leather 'mustache' mules, whose rhythmic movements add a whimsical touch. These High tassel mule represent a niche shoe category that has been gaining momentum on the runway: mustache-like, hairy, fringed, and fluffy-Pino footwear that elevates any mundane ensemble or simply adds more flair to the extravagant. In SS23, Loewe debuted the Comic lacquered foam pump (Céline previously explored a similar design in 2013, albeit in mink, a decidedly unconventional choice), creating the illusion of being part-human, part-Minnie Mouse—a concept that might sound eerie but carries its own charm. When it comes to fashion, we do appreciate a touch of contradiction.

Ferragamo Fall 2024

Here are some of our favorite shoe creatures, starting with two cozy pairs residing in our Wardrobe: the shearling Khaite ballerinas and the Loewe Toy rug pumps in Palermo. This Fall 2024, Ferragamo showcased chic feathered pumps in various colors, resembling a cool Pino, while Jil Sander and Duran Lantink introduced fuzzy footwear that has us reconsidering Uggs. In Fall 2023, Gucci transformed their faux furry Princetown loafers into sandals, a design so enticing that we're contemplating purchasing a fur-less version for this summer. The Burberry Shearling Step Post sandals debuted in the same runway season, alongside the Khaite Marion sandals (available here in brown), appearing as furry triplets. It's common knowledge that we have a penchant for hoof-shaped footwear (Tabi overload), so it's no surprise that we're intrigued by this shoe shape, initially introduced by Ann Demeulemeester, later seen in Céline Fall 2017, and now reinvented in the Loewe Campo leather Chelsea boots. It's clear by now that Jonathan Anderson cannot be separated from our shoe creature subject (insert Wellipets). Although we're avid fans of the JW. Anderson men's Paw derby, we can't overlook the women's Paw sandals (both high heel and kitten heel).

MATICEVSKI Candescence asymmetric bustier gown, BALENCIAGA Shoe clutch knife, GIVENCHY Silver small padlock keychain, MAISON MARGIELA Tabi flip flops

Vautrait

There are four LVMH Prize semi-finalists in this list, including Vautrait. The brand was founded by Yonathan Carmel in 2021. One look from the Vautrait AW24 show lives in our minds rent-free. A trenchcoat with what looks like a tan body/corset, with a thin but long belt in a slightly darker brown holding it together, and a pair of reddish-brown long leather gloves attached to it. The leather looks worn and has a beautiful patina, accentuating the vintage silhouette, making this look simultaneously nostalgic and very now. There is something about Vautrait that evokes the feeling of stumbling upon a rare vintage Hermès accessory or discovering a perfectly preserved coat in the back of a thrift shop. His grey asymmetrical suit jacket exudes the timeless chicness reminiscent of the Margiela years for Hermès. We eagerly await the release of this collection. In the meantime, explore his current collection—featuring stunning shirts adorned with a beautiful vintage label—available on Boon Paris.

 Vautrait Fall 2024

Niccolò Pasqualetti

Niccolò Pasqualetti, at only 29 years old, has an impressive resume. He interned at The Row, earned his master's degree at the prestigious Central Saint Martins, and worked for Loewe before launching his eponymous label. The Italian designer, who splits his time between Tuscany and Paris, is known for his bold silhouettes, asymmetry, and contrasting textures. One standout look from his AW23 collection is look 3, featuring a voluminous grey knit adorned with additional sleeves and a silver skirt draped to resemble a stone, creating a dramatically chic effect. If you follow us on Instagram, you've likely noticed his faux fur bag, which has captured our attention. In addition to ready-to-wear, Pasqualetti is also a jewelry designer, and we're eagerly anticipating the release of his silver and quartz sculptural necklace on Ssense.

ANN DEMEULENMEESTER Uma cargo waistcoat crumpled paper effect, MARIE ADAM-LEENAERDT Beige pinched trench coat, LEMAIRE High rise wide leg jeans (or try these) and LEMAIRE Egg bag

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt

Marie Adam-Leenaerdt first caught our attention when she had the honor of opening Paris Fashion Week. Following her debut show, buyers from Net-a-Porter, Ssense, and Bergdorf immediately visited the showroom to place orders. Her designs are minimalistic yet far from dull. The Belgian designer is big on tailoring, but there's also an element of unconventional construction, such as dropped shoulders on oversized jackets and lapels sewn together (as seen in the exquisite black leather coat available on Ssense). We were particularly enamored with her white leather dress, which resembled an exaggeratedly long skirt with a belt serving as a neckline, featuring holes on the sides for the arms. Another standout piece was a black leather dress that, when worn, resembled a skirt worn upside down, resulting in a captivating cape-like effect. While Adam-Leenaerdt favors neutrals, she often incorporates pops of neon, leaving us yearning for unexpected pieces like a fluorescent pink cape or a Smurf-blue draped dress. What's remarkable about Adam-Leenaerdt's collections is her inclusion of accessories from the start, seamlessly blending into her universe, such as these square-toed and square-heeled pumps.

 Marie Adam-Leenaerdt Fall 2024

Hodakova

No, you're not experiencing déjà vu; we've written about Hodakova before, but we couldn't resist including her in this list. Her AW24 collection was one of our favorites of the season, featuring various iterations of her now-famous belt dresses, some of which were intricately woven. Ellen Larsson Hodakova also delved into innovative ways to upcycle trousers. There was a dress crafted entirely from leather trouser waistbands, while another featured a leather top cascading into a skirt made from khaki pants. A similar concept was applied to pinstripe trousers as well. The Swedish designer also played with the idea of reversing blazers and coats to expose their linings—the typically hidden and purely functional aspect of clothing, yet it made us eager to turn all our jackets inside out. Our standout ensemble was worn by a model in white tights and a transparent, barely-there top paired with a skirt made from vintage fur hats. It's unconventional, it's playful, and therefore it's everything we wish we were wearing right now.

 Hodakova Fall 2024

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