SOFT POWER

Last month we talked about crisis dressing, where fashion becomes armor, a way to adapt or deflect in critical times. FW '25 gave us cone bras as shields, creased tailoring, and thick felted coats stripped to the bare minimum. Dressing tough makes sense. But there is another way to resist, a quieter one: soft power. The ability to co-opt rather than coerce, to persuade without force. A kind of dressing that does not shout but still makes itself heard, by soothing instead of confronting. Think cotton voile, sun-faded jersey, buttery suede, and healthy, bouncing hair. Those 90s Chloé campaigns and iconic runway moments come to mind. No fashion house has captured the idea of women leading with ease quite like Chloé.

This week, a vintage-inspired T-shirt reminded us of the French fashion house. The Chloé logo barely visible on a faded orange and brown graphic of a female face. The moment we shared it with each other, everything came flooding back: the softness, the warmth, the quiet quirkiness that defined Chloé. In the aftermath of last fashion month dominated by grit and grit alone, it’s this kind of ease that feels like a quiet protest. Strength doesn't always have to be loud. It can be gentle, playful, and instinctive—rooted in ease and openness.

CHLOÉ Logo printed jersey T-shirt (or here)

The return of boho

Under the creative direction of Chemena Kamali since 2023, Chloé is experiencing a comeback not just in relevance but in emotion. As a former Chloé designer, Kamali understands that in the world of Chloé, boho isn’t just a trend. It is a language. By reviving the house, she brought boho back into the 2020s. Her recent debut rehashed floaty dresses and seventies silhouettes. It recaptured the house’s soul, a soft, sun-dappled energy that felt honest, lived-in, and joyful. Bohemian style first emerged as an anti-reaction during times of crisis in the 60s and 70s, when individuality and a return to nature became not just a style but a statement. It was a movement that pushed against the harsh political climate of the time, a moment when people were quite literally craving softness on their bodies. Sound familiar?

1990s CHLOÉ black satin mandarin collar shift dress (for the same style see here, here and here or as a jacket here. And/or pair with this silk palazzo pants)

Since its founding in 1952 by Gaby Aghion, Chloé has stood for a new kind of femininity, one that is elegant without being formal. Aghion’s ready-to-wear concept was radical at the time: luxury without the couture barrier. One of her most iconic designs was the Chloé blouse, a soft, billowy garment that epitomized the brand’s relaxed yet refined aesthetic. Another notable piece was the leather skirt, which introduced easy, everyday luxury that felt both feminine and effortlessly chic. In the 1960s, Aghion hired a young, then-unknown Karl Lagerfeld, who would go on to define the brand’s romantic, often offbeat identity throughout the ’70s.

ARKET Swim top, Karl Lagerfeld for CHLOÉ black silk chiffon pants skirt, CHLOÉ Iconic chain belt and CHLOÉ 50mm Ghillies leather pumps (here in black)

The Stella Era and Philo Prelude

When Stella McCartney replaced Karl Lagerfeld in the late ’90s (at age 25), she brought a different kind of energy: wit, charm, and just the right amount of cheek. Her Chloé girl was bold but breezy; slinky low-rise pants, slouchy tailoring, and those now-iconic horse-printed tops and trousers that captured the house’s equestrian soul. Stella gave Chloé humor (like this S/S 2001 "keep your bananas off my melons" top, that’s still an iconic collection element)— a kind of lightness that made the collection feel flirtatious without trying too hard.

Chloé SS 2000, by Stella McCartney. (Have a look at this Chloé body chain)

Phoebe Philo, then 27 years old, first worked alongside McCartney before taking over as creative director in 2001. Before she reshaped modern fashion at Céline, she quietly built her vocabulary at Chloé: oversized belts, poet shirts, gaucho trousers, and boots that looked like they’d been worn to the stables and back. It was instinctive dressing, not curated or forced. Phoebe’s Chloé wasn’t about shock or spectacle. It was about intuition. The feeling of air-dried hair and worn-out bags suggested that you could be seductive by being soft and elegant by being easy. A signature still visible in Philo’s own label today.

The most memorable item introduced by Philo at Chloé was the worn-in leather Paddington bag, launched in 2005. A key player in what we now know as the It-bag era, this distinctive design featured soft, rounded edges and a statement leather covered lock. The Paddington’s allure led to unprecedented demand: all 8,000 units produced for its initial release were sold out before even reaching store shelves. While there have been countless attempts to reimagine the Paddington, with Kamali bringing back the signature lock in the 99 leather shoulder bag, it never quite felt right. But maybe now is the moment.

CHLOÉ Belted cotton-gabardine trench coat, COMMISSION White reversed baby T-shirt, CHLOÉ Pleated silk crepe de chine shorts and Vintage CHLOÉ Paddington bag (or here, more vintage Paddington here). Pair it with the Judith mules.

Soft power

Bohemian style grew out of rebellion and a desire to break away from societal norms. It was born from rupture, a longing for freedom in the wake of conflict. Now, once again, we see fashion circling back. As the world grows uncertain, the industry reaches for softness, familiarity, and ease. Chloé understands this, reminding us that style doesn’t need to be aggressive to make an impact. In moments when the world hardens, fashion can also soften—a different kind of crisis dressing. That might explain our sudden nostalgic pull toward that vintage-inspired Chloé T-shirt and everything it represents.

P.S. This might be our favorite pre-loved Chloé bag, also available here. This vintage Chloé keychain pairs well with the Marcie leather shoulder bag (or here), Camera leather-trimmed suede shoulder bag, the Tasseled leather shoulder bag, and Kerala 22 leather shoulder bag. Lastly, we won’t say no to these Marcie leather flats and PVC jellies.

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