THE FOUR BRANDS WE'RE BUYING (AND IT'S NOT PHOEBE PHILO)
Read all about the emerging designers curing our fashion fatigue, delve into a sequel on Phoebe Philo, and explore a curated selection of sales that are getting us in the festive mood.
Like clockwork, fashion fatigue sets in during winter. Fall looks are fun, especially when you can still wear your coat open and effortlessly layer all your favorite pieces. However, when temperatures plummet and freezing weather sets in, our sense of style seems to hibernate, and all we crave is to cocoon ourselves in anything Tekla. Nevertheless, there are four brands breathing life into us and our wardrobes at the moment—an ode to the designers pulling us out of our pajamas.
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PS: A note on the second delivery of Phoebe Philo’s A1. We were right; the new pieces, including the Drive bag—an inflated rendition of the iconic Old Céline ‘Clasp’ bag—were right under our noses all along (e.g., on the IMAGE section on phoebephilo.com). Remember Stephanie’s obsession with the Phoebe Philo Gig bag? After anxiously waiting and refreshing the website by the minute all day, hyping herself up in hopes of a second chance at buying it, the site finally went live at 23:06, and she placed her order. It arrived two days later, but even before opening the package, she knew she would likely return it. In real life, the Gig reminds us even more of the Old Céline Trio bag but bigger and with larger rounded edges. Completely empty, we have to admit Gig is a little boring, but we believe that filled up until it looks as inflated as in the campaign images where Daria Werbowy holds it, it is indeed very chic. However, in this economy, spending 2800 euros on a white bag just doesn’t feel right. Instead, she returned Gig and ordered a garment from an emerging designer that was one-fifth of the price (and made from repurposed fabrics) and that she will certainly cherish forever. Read all about her purchase below.
Hoda Kova
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Hodakova, based in Stockholm and led by designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson, emerged during the pandemic in 2021. Her eponymous brand, Hodakova, is renowned for its deconstructed designs, or 'converted goods' as she calls them in her Instagram bio. Hodakova's creations remind us of Martin Margiela's early work, delivering a sustainable take on avant-garde fashion. Crafting one-of-a-kind pieces from repurposed garments, she showcased her creativity in a recent Paris show, where a hundred belt buckles transformed into a skirt and dress, coin purses became striking shoes, and a jacket emerged entirely from silver pens. Folded trousers sewn together took on a new life as a distinct pair. The power of her work extends beyond repurposing materials; it's a testament to craftsmanship and artisan techniques. The Ceiling’s Stephanie recently acquired one of her famous bra tops, composed of secondhand bras, featuring an asymmetric hem and hanging strap details. Meanwhile, Charon is eagerly saving for the Belt Bag Chequered, meticulously crafted from black and brown leather belts woven into a rectangular structure.
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Nicklas Skovgaard
The most anticipated debut of Copenhagen Fashion Week belonged to Nicklas Skovgaard. And boy, did he deliver. During the show, Dutch performance artist Britt Liberg emerged from her seat in the audience and took center stage, surrounded by mannequin dolls adorned in Nicklas’ designs. Britt captivated the audience by shedding her trench coat, leaving nothing but a pair of white knickers and boots on. Throughout the performance, she dressed and undressed in Nicklas' entire collection, dancing, mimicking the mannequins' poses, and provocatively engaging the audience. Nicklas draws inspiration from baroque portraiture and pop culture, particularly evident in elements reminiscent of Madonna’s iconic music videos. Picture voluptuous peplum hems, puffed sleeves, and exaggerated shoulders. Since the collection dropped on Ssense, we find ourselves unable to close the tab on our laptops, captivated by standout pieces like the gold midi dress, the black sequin dress, and the ruffled top – all currently on sale and irresistible for the festive season.
Fidan Novruzova
Fidan Novruzova's collections are not only exceptionally well-crafted but also boast an inflation-proof price point, tempting us to keep her as our little secret for a while. She first caught our attention with the iconic Havva boots, renowned for their square toes and distinctive folded-over look. Our admiration deepened with the Giada bow/stripe nylon trousers, her reinterpretation of classic Adidas pants. Launching her eponymous label in 2020, Fidan brings retro-futuristic twists to timeless wardrobe staples, infused with elements from her Azerbaijani heritage. Based in Moldova, she is committed to showcasing the craftsmanship of local artisans and preserving traditional techniques honed over the years. Standouts from her current collection (all available on sale at Ssense) include the tall and cropped black Havva boots, the brown Bow trousers, and the Bibi baguette bag.
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All-in
Launched in 2018 as a magazine by Paris-based photographer Benjamin Barron, All-In has evolved over the past few years into a clothing line developed in collaboration with Norwegian designer Bror August. Just a year later, Maryam Nassir Zadeh expressed interest in selling their unique creations crafted from upcycled charity shop finds. In 2019, they debuted their inaugural collection in her Lower East Side store. The Ceiling’s Stephanie was in attendance and immediately captivated by the brand’s distinctive asymmetric patchwork aesthetic. Contrary to common belief, utilizing existing fabrics and garments doesn't help offset costs; in fact, it's the opposite. Despite this, due to their environmental commitment, the duo persists in transforming found fabrics into some of the most stylish garments currently available. Notable pieces include the Fan tank top, a collage shirt crafted from Britney Spears, Lady Gaga, and Madonna merch, the Pillow camisole, ideal for layering this season, and the multicolor Ruffle tennis skirt.
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Getting into the festive mood without breaking the bank! Here are our wardrobe's holiday season favorites, on sale and listed here in no particular order:
LADO BOKUCHAVA Black buckle twentythree miniskirt, POSTER GIRL belt, GIMAGUAS Black Rino belt, HELMUT LANG Cow print skirt, ELENA VELEZ Brown raw edge midi skirt, RAEY Corduroy trousers, Y/PROJECT Cut-out jeans in blue, YOHJI YAMAMOTO Black draped bucket hat, Y/PROJECT Foldover jeans in black, Y/PROJECT Gray hook-eye maxi dress, RAEY Wool long-sleeve, STUDIO NICHOLSON Navy Tana coat, SAKS POTTS Gray Nicoline midi skirt, SAKS POTTS Salma jeans, JIL SANDER Sphere collar necklace, LEMAIRE Twisted trompe l'œil sweater midi dress, MARYAM NASSIR ZADEH White Julian Bag also in taupe here, LOW CLASSIC Navy wide collar peacoat, SAKS POTTS William striped cotton-poplin shirt, ALAÏA Pointelle-trimmed wool-blend jersey bodysuit. ANN DEMEULEMEESTER Gret asymmetric satin maxi dress, ALAÏA Zebra-print schoulder bag, also in leopard and the MAISON MARGIELA Tabi Rain boots.
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